“Cosmetics, Glamour and AIDS: Way Bandy, Scott Barrie and Halston”

“We are shaped and fashioned by what we love.”― Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

I presented “Cosmetics, Glamour and AIDS: Way Bandy, Scott Barrie and Halston” Thursday, July 1st at 1pm Toronto time for the Sartorial Society Series @SartorialSeries https://www.sartorialsocietyseries.com/

Here is the recording:

https://www.sartorialsocietyseries.com/

My talk was part of week 5:

Week Five: Trauma & the Legacies of Loss

1st July 2021

Lucy Adlington (20-minute paper)

The Apple-Green Gown: Ghosts of ADEFA and Nazi Germany

Mark O’Connell (20-minute paper)

Cosmetics, Glamour and AIDS: Way Bandy, Scott Barrie and Halston

Kimberly Lamm (20-minute paper)

The Time of Slavery at the White House: Elizabeth Keckley’s Written Garments and the Burdens of Intimacy

I love this lecture series and am honoured to have my research included.

Margaux Hemingway, photographed by Francesco Scavullo for the film Lipstick (1976), makeup by Way Bandy.

The Musuem at FIT: Evening Dress. Brand: Scott Barrie; Medium: Rayon jersey; Date: c. 1973; Object Number: 81.145.3; Credit: Gift of Naomi Sims

Haunted? As a queer man in my middle years who has always worked in fashion, I am haunted by those lost to AIDS. This presentation focuses on the design work of a practitioner who has largely been erased from fashion history: makeup artist Way Bandy, as well as Scott Barrie “among the first black designers to become well-known in American fashion” (http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/), and Halston. Bandy the first “celebrity” makeup artist, worked on Elizabeth Taylor, Liza, as well as Margaux Hemingway in Lipstick (1976).

Bandy’s fame was so widespread in the mid 70’s that he was even featured in the latter film along with Francesco Scavullo. Bandy’s artistry defined the 1970’s with a focus on a “natural” face, albeit one that was still heavily made up and unapologetically glamorous. He was truly gifted as an artist, mixing his own colours and foundations which he kept secret, and one who helped create the beauty aesthetic that reflected the zeitgeist of his era.

This presentation examines the beauty iconography of Bandy as it was imbricated within the larger glamour tropes of the 70’s, disco divahood, and the draped, dancing luxury of Scott Barrie and Halston. All in aid of chronicling an era whose scintillating, liquid silhouettes echoed the promises of liberatory ease and an empowered sexuality for anyone who dared; an invitation to fashionable freedom abruptly ended by the advent of AIDS.

COLLECTIONS:

The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art

Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA)

The Museum at FIT

Savannah College of Art & Design (SCAD)

The Seneca Fashion Resource Centre (SFRC)

The Victoria and Albert Museum

REFERENCES:

“Cosmetics and Skin: Charles of the Ritz (post-1936)” accessed Nov.1, 2020. http://www.cosmeticsandskin.com.

“Margaux Hemingway and Francesco Scavullo – Lipstick” Youtube. Accessed Oct, 30, 2020. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rf7YyZtrg7w&list=PLFFB7CD430A3F6F6B&index=15&t=27s

“Scott Barrie”. 2020. FIDM.  https://fidmmuseum.org/2020/06/scott-barrie.htm

“Way Bandy, Makeup Artist and Best-Selling Writer, Dies: [Obituary].” 1986. The New York Times, Aug 15. http://ezproxy.lib.ryerson.ca/login?url=https://www-proquest-com.ezproxy.lib.ryerson.ca/docview/425974908?accountid=13631.

Beauvoir, Simone de.1975 [1949]. The Second Sex, Harmondsworth: Penguin.

Benoit, Andrea. 2019. Viva M·A·C: AIDS, Fashion, and the Philanthropic Practices of M·A·C . Cosmetics. Toronto: University of Toronto Press.

Born, Pete. 1983. “Charles of the Ritz: A New Face.” Women’s Wear Daily 145: 6.

Bourdieu, Pierre. 1984. Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgement of Taste. Harvard University Press.

Butler, Judith .1990. Gender Trouble: Feminism and the Subversion of Identity. New York: Routledge.

Cavallo, P., M. C. Proto, C. Patruno, A. Del Sorbo, and M. Bifulco. 2008. “The First Cosmetic Treatise of History. A Female Point of View.” International Journal of Cosmetic Science 30 .2.: 79-86.

Craik, Jennifer .1989. “‘I Must Put My Face On’: Making Up the Body and Marking Out the Feminine”, Cultural Studies 3.1.: 1–24.

Craik, Jennifer.1994. “Cosmetic Attributes: Techniques of Make-up and Perfume”, in The Face of Fashion. London and New York: Routledge: 153–75

Cunningham, Laura. 1976. “Way Bandy: Beauty’s Darling.” Cosmopolitan (1952) 181 (1): 126.

Eldridge, Lisa. 2015. Face Paint: The Story of Makeup. Abrams.

Evans, Caroline and Minna Thornton .1989. Women and Fashion: A New Look. London: Quartet.

Drake, Alicia. 2012. The Beautiful Fall: Fashion, Genius and Glorious Excess in 1970s Paris. Bloomsbury Publishing, 2012.

Foucault, Michel. 1977. Discipline and Punish: The Birth of the Prison. Duke University Press.

Gogick, Kathy. 1972. “Charles of the Ritz Revisited.” Town & Country Magazine 126 .4595.: 14.

Hay, Louise L. 1988. The AIDS Book: Creating a Positive Approach. Hay House.

H.I.V.Gov. https://www.hiv.gov/hiv-basics/overview/history/hiv-and-aids-timeline

Holleran, Andrew. 2008. Chronicle of a Plague, Revisited: AIDS and its Aftermath. Da Capo Press, Incorporated.

Holloway, Lynette. 1996. “Margaux Hemingway is Dead; Model and Actress was 41” The New York Times. July 3, 1996. Accessed Oct 30, 2020.

Jain, NK and SK Chaudhri. 2009. “History of Cosmetics.” Asian Journal of Pharmaceutics 3 .3.: 164.

Lavin, Cheryl. 1981. “Makeup Artist Wields Magical Beauty Wand” Boca Raton News. May 31, 1981.

Lury, Celia .1996. Consumer Culture. Cambridge: Polity Press.

Maupin, Armistead. 2008. Michael Tolliver Lives. Vol. 7. Random House.

Morris, Bernadine, Barbara Walz. 1978. The Fashion Makers. Random House.

Murphy, Michael. 1992. The Future of the Body: Explorations into the Further Evolution of Human Nature. Los Angeles, CA: Jeremy P. Tarcher.

Negrin, Llewellyn. 2000. “Cosmetics and the Female Body: A Critical Appraisal of Poststructuralist Theories of Masquerade.” European Journal of Cultural Studies 3, no. 1: 83-101.

Okwodu, Janelle. 2016. “Before Supermodels, There Was Margaux Hemingway” Vogue, online edition. August 19, 2016. Accessed July 1, 2021 https://www.vogue.com/article/margaux-hemingway-70s-supermodel-in-vogue

Palmer, Alexandra. 2001. Couture & Commerce: The Transatlantic Fashion Trade in the 1950s. UBC Press.

Polman, Dick. 1986. “Remembering Way Bandy: Friends Recall the Makeup Artist, Who Died of Aids.” The Philadelphia Inquirer. November 15, 1986.

Ray, Randy, and Mark Kearney. 2002. I Know That Name!: The People Behind Canada”s Best Known Brand Names from Elizabeth Arden to Walter Zeller. Toronto, Dundurn.

Rowes, Barbara. 1978. “If It Launched a Thousand Ships, the Face Was Probably Done by Makeup Genius Way Bandy” People.com.  May 01, 1978. Accessed Oct 30, 2020.  https://people.com/archive/if-it-launched-a-thousand-ships-the-face-was-probably-done-by-makeup-genius-way-bandy-vol-9-no-17/

Silverman, Kaja.1986. “Fragments of a Fashionable Discourse”, in T. Modleski .ed.. Studies in Entertainment: 139–52. Bloomington and Indianapolis: Indiana University Press.

Simmel, Georg. 1959. “The Aesthetic Significance of the Face”, in K.H. Wolff .ed.. Georg Simmel 1858–1918: A Collection of Essays: 276–81. Columbia: Ohio State University Press.

Sontag, Susan. 1989. AIDS and its Metaphors. Macmillan.

Talley, Andre Leon. 2020. The Chiffon Trenches. Random House Publishing Group

Trebbe, Ann. 1986. “Death and the AIDS Disclosure” Washington Post. August 19, 1986. Accessed OCt.30, 2020. https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/1986/08/19/death-and-the-aids-disclosure/286047dc-0683-4048-95b7-fac74c81d647/

Treichler, Paula A. 1999. How to Have Theory in an Epidemic: Cultural Chronicles of AIDS. Duke University Press.

White, Edmund. 2009. City Boy: My Life in New York During the 1960s and ‘70s. Bloomsbury Publishing USA.

Wilson, Elizabeth. 2003. Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity. Rutgers University Press, 2003.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s